She heard the car then quickly ran to the door rang, I saw in the car, forced open a metal door, then sandwiched Chinese in Tibet, I call again and again pulled into the yard. Yard wide, but were filled with large and small, yak, they stand still does not move, she Lianhan on behalf of the sauce, slowly wore my cow ass car, they only make room for me.
Gama beads very happy for me, her husband Nima unloading, this meeting more than a year-old Little Dot: But Jeb - their little son. Daughter away, she married last year, tens of miles away from home village of friends cloth, son was a passenger in the driver ran short, easy life but also smug. Old grandmother has passed away, she pointed out to me Look Ma Nepalese hillside flag fluttering in many places, that my mother there. Passing a touch of melancholy in my heart, eyes drifting across the climbers in 1982, when living in the wood, grazing experts who not only beautiful but also the young village girls dance song - Gama beads mother ... ... ...
hot butter tea was served, the butter, Naizha, tsampa filled with hidden tables, a long time did not drink butter tea, and I Picking Up, that sweet smell of incense back to me twenty years ago ... ... ... .
my trip is not for viewing on the 4520m's Cimei liangzi Gongga majestic peak, but from Cimei certain distance down to only three families of the Cimei Village, then along the direction of Kampot River, hiking, straight through the primitive forest Qinggang Gonggar Temple, this is my purpose.
1982 Minnesota climbers in the United States is the material base for the next six households Cimei village, 5 km from the village on the Cimei. From a certain distance to the next Cimei Village dumb, then to 5 hours or more horses, there is now a simple winding road, 40 minutes has been up to the village. Gama beads live in the home, lights, TV, with electric mixer beat butter tea. As mountain snow, the car can not be opened (not off-road vehicles), only riding, I would like to quickly rushed to the Cimei liangzi actually dumb, he could take Gonggar peak, decided that her husband Nima Gama with his beads The 125cc motorcycle gave me first up, followed by horse Gama beads come together again down to Cimei village. This is a practical and efficient solutions to such implementation.
next day, the weather was fine, the earth warmed up, cloudless Dents Meiliang Zi ─ ─ This is dumb, watch the magnificent peak Gongga great time, We brought food, water, then the road the. I went to Nima
motorcycle, trouble comes: a small but Jeb horse out to see grandmother, father launched the motorcycle, not life and death next door, climbed up his motorcycle, to resolve conflicts The only way: Motorcycle crew into three. The Road to Cimei liangzi Road changed, no longer had to go through the tall wooden bridge, another bridge has been leading ridge. Road widening,cheap UGG boots, the gravel road, turn a hurry, the more snow in the higher road. I remember the first time on Cimei certain distance, the horse is walking through the scrub forest, the branches at any time by hooking the clothes, the face will be scratched. Once the snow is too large, fast upon dumb, Qi Ma belly deep snow, I almost can not pull the legs move into the snow, and finally had to seize the horses tail, dragged on the pass! Now a
away more than half of snow the wind shave, under the strong ultraviolet direct soon become black and red, and good for many years to run wild forget sunscreen is also still hold up wipe. He kept the uphill, with 4000m it, motorcycle breathless, power down, only to stop and slowly fresh. Nima looked at the tank, then unscrew the oil-foot ─ ─ worse, even under the oil groove is not that he did not check out the car, which would dare to open it? Walla strange cylinder does not burn! I immediately made a decision: Do you fast down the mountain, I went to the top, where other horses. He left me a bottle of water, two Mi Huatang, then running away with a small but Jeb. Connaught large mountain, the four cold Li Xue-Feng Zhou, whining sound of the wind accompanied lonely me, a good camera bag back to the top of departure. I have had a certain distance in Cimei week on the experience of living tent, lonely beat me, eyes are dumb I have to board as soon as possible, the light waits for no man, I want to film ah! A character Shui Road, along the way to go to the big time? Had to cut corners, straight up!
snow-covered slopes of gravel is not good scraps, and only step is a step to the other foot, so it goes, wear gloves and throw up some distance from camera bags, and then even the hand with the foot the climb ... ... .. thanks to a two Mihua Tang,Discount UGG boots, a bottle of water, add strength to solve a big problem. In the 4500m altitude, can imagine the taste of mountain climbing. Spent nearly two and a half hours I finally reached the dumb. Spend too much time hiking, four in the afternoon the clouds will be, and this is also cast a layer of white thin cloud drones. According to my practice, camera bag down the face of Gonggar Kamiyama, devout to the
both in Mt dignified silence, but also goodwill, passionate. She is the darling of nature, is the Pride of Mother Earth, her mind wide open-minded, high-Jun magnificent courage, inspiring the people, inspiring! Mountain I have in mind; Gongga, I come!
4700m too windy, just climbing sweat, underwear is now attached to the body, cold, finished pieces have to find a place to Duoduo leeward, I went to a prominent place to sit and rock, grasping a handful of snow into his mouth ... ... ... too tired, sleepy ─ ─ very clear to me in the last 5000m of the place, is in any case can not sleep past, Qiangdajingshen also did well in the past! Otherwise might never wake up! If so, the body can not help on the upper and lower eyelids to fight fatigue, I was so dizzy and strong state of consciousness is still clear, and I remember the case of early climbers, recalled a young man know what's good and what does not with to on the 6700m ! memories of the old lama temple Lowa Gongga, recalled traveling in Kampot Ronaldinho on the glacier on the day of random firing, the other side of the mountain caused an avalanche, and that, like muffled thunder as the voice of quite a while to pass over ... ... ... memories of whiteness Farm Buddha looks like Cabanatuan Zhuang Meili ... ... ....
not sure how long, beads Gama lead a horse standing next to me, she shouted me: I stand up and look fierce: Said she in a hurry. I laughed and said: Her heart was anxious off the ground. 5000m no joke! In my many years of field experience, the most likely to cause high altitude sickness, in 5000m around; in 1986 in Tibet, over the 5700m of Mt Mayum pull, my team of seven to fall! And they all have many years of experience in outdoor activities on the plateau are! We piled in the dumb side of Nepal Ma take a break, ate dry food will be turned over to the Cimei Village embarked dumb. Downhill, go up easily, do not ride all the way forward in the cloud.
early spring, the mainland has long pink peach, there is still snow covered, the earth is still a pack of chill. Only the lower recesses of the mountain, a large pine forest along the mountain, dyed a dark green. Lower elevation, the growth into a piece of green carry the forest, the brown leaves throughout the year if nothing changes, on the trees fluttering in the I found Cimei Christine Leung, northeast slope of the mountain is not the growth of young trees carry, and down the southeast slope is forest green carry along the route leading to large tracts of woods are Gongga Temple.
looked under high, only three households in the village sits on the foot of Cimei a small plain, golden light glowing in the sun roof, deep valley of a small Tibetan villages Gonggar appear So quiet, clean running, the winds around the camp, I really have some taste of paradise. behind came the sound of a motor
, two trucks loaded with bricks Huangwa according to the situation and, in the corners on the mountain plate, to be reversing back and forth, tossing a few can only access - that it is the Road repaired after the first pass large trucks, transported all the villagers to build new houses in the building materials.
on Cimei Village only three families have built new houses. Home of the hostess greeted us after another, she was so beautiful, and she knew many years ago, she still remembered me. Spacious house, not the old Tibetan stone house to live in upstairs downstairs that the pattern of raising livestock, health habits improved greatly. In order to host tourism guests, her family also built a one room, a bathroom, preparation of a new bedding, can accommodate twenty or thirty people. Her husband, son, daughter, daughter, a son in addition to all kinds of crops, raising livestock, other times on the development of Her Only three households in the village on the Cimei such a
My destination is long-lived dozens of days when I'm climbing the Gongga Temple, when no roads, climbing material transfer Shiji Li Road, from here in the next Cimei village. Cimei village under six families, fireworks, some flourishing. The village is now on a year of wood home village fungus, mushroom after rain everywhere.) Many of his yard with wood, stone tablets, written above, or use different words engraved climbers from different countries, the experience of mountain climbing Denggong Ga, there have been United States, Japan, Britain, France, Switzerland ... .... And other countries climbers to climb. Record of the failure of almost all of these boards, tables of stone on the mountain through the book, also engraved with the names of the victims, this is probably a memorial to forget, people saw there is a feeling of reverence. The difficulty is far greater than the summit of Mount Everest. According to statistics so far, only 24 were successful summit, there are 37 people were killed in the climb and after the summit, which includes 14 Japanese. Mortality far more than climbing Mount Everest and K2 peak of 14% to 30%.
now repair the road, not to the next Cimei village, along the road Xiecha Gongga Temple on the line.
the next day is sunny, songs that I and affinity in Mt, where guests stay, and some other can not see it for a week le! Ma will be prepared early in the morning of departure. Temple went nearly all the original Gongga Qinggang walking through the forest, steep mountain, riding uphill, downhill was holding. Prior to 1982, if it is in August, Qinggang seed of the season, you have to be careful walking: Ma name nose ring, but lack of progress is not raised forepaw before, only to hear the clap hill Grilled sound broken branches, which black bear season is infested, black bears like to eat the seeds Qinggang. Climb to eat special food, weight pressure often broken branches. Horses smell the taste of black bear, not forward, people are holding their breath, do not come up with the slightest noise, to be further away the mountains ring, horse rehabilitation calm, and began the road. Then antelope, river deer in the eyes from time to time, squirrels and human counterparts, long-tail grouse, and white chicken would be more of the ... ... ... How I would like to see these old acquaintance ah!
a colorful flag by Ma Nepalese blue skies Cham tower against the background of exceptionally bright and Xuefeng, after more than three hours of journey, my favorite in the Temple is about to Gongga, the sacred white Gongga drones and thirty years ago, fixed the prestige of the show in front of me. Gonggar newly built temple eaves directed Cang poor show was solemn and dignified, a sign the book with: buy tickets, please visit the Temple Gongga! Where is the door? Neither the door and no one, I'll drive straight. A group of grouse lined up the line in front of me, see me walking quickly climbed into the trees, I Dunsheng surprise! Padmasambhava hall in the yard bolt a good horse, see someone to call, closer scrutiny turned out to be many meetings in the Cimei certain distance, and lived in a tent in the land register! He saw me even happier to busy playing buttered tea. He said there are wildlife laws, grouse very bold, and sometimes went to the temple to pick up something! He is now responsible for the daily chores to take care of the temple management, management of Padmasambhava, the great hall, practice things are Ga Ma Gongbu Lama, the Lama Temple, who in turn are made to watch the new Gongga (New Temple in the sixth bar). Repair the hall like a courtyard. Gongga temple has been repaired now, but the scale and momentum and the history of temple incense far cry from the heyday when the Gongga.
Gonggar Kham Temple is a famous temple, not quite, is located opposite Mount Gongga. Is several hundred years of history, Gonggar Temple is the Karma Kagyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism (White Sect) one of the three holy is the temple from the recent peak,UGG boots cheap, is to watch the main peak, the largest glacier and Gongga at large Goumba out, clouds and other wonders of the sea the best location. Founded in the mid-thirteenth century, by the second Karmapa Karmapa disciple of the pro-Greece tie white drawing (the comfort of the First World Living Buddha) was built six hundred years of history has been for ages Kunga Lama The practice retreat Holy Land.
Gongga little magic,UGG bailey button, a large temple, no place of its location. Gongga by a former Temple Lama Geshe degree rotation abbot of the temple monks Kham turn to come here to study and the Scriptures, where there is a profound study of Tibetology people have come to specialize in a certain time Gongga Temple, like Today's Over a hundred monks for a long time, the necessities of life, butter Zan Pakistan, near the village by the support, but unfortunately the I 1982 and climbers Minnesota headquarters in Gonggar Temple, the whole temple moldering broken walls, exquisite color paintings beam columns, moved, a temple rubble, destroyed the Buddha, without a complete! I take the tent away from the temple recently, leisure and only a 70-year-old lama temple to see I send him a picture of Potala Palace, and he's on the straight and live in wooden shacks on the central, surrounded by still around on the white hada. Up before dawn every day, in the temple erected on a wooden mount a thangka, the face lit Gongga mountain pine branches, with the scent of white smoke slowly every now and then, drifting across the Xuefeng ... ... ...
Lowa sitting cross-legged in the snow, his hands clasped together, eyes half closed, mouth buzz and moving, every thought has resigned. This is mandatory as early as his daily lesson, I asked what he read classics, he calmly answered me: He said: I was touched by the kindness of the Tibetan old, he said: , after you step on the stone up the mountain, the stone will not slip my! Let me sincerely weep for the elderly. Lived together for dozens of days, not even a two to three years. When I again on the Gonggar, lowa Lama asked, people told me Lowa Lama has lived for many years, I was passing a trace of Chou Chang, silently praying for the elderly, may he turn into Gongga clouds, in heaven forever overlooking their own home. I read he had a Tibetan poetry, translated to the effect that:
Gongga
boarded off the golden flower a piece of pink clouds
Sabian petals
industrious collectors
me also to pay tribute to the Gongga Temple has a beautiful soul of the monks, to further the three decades old dream, I tried to find Lowa shack and my tent sites, time is gone, the old track is hard to find ... ... ....
I try to find engraved in 1957, failed to find, I called the temple management and deacons Lama Thubten Ga Ma Gongbu, did not find ─ ─ they were young, things for many years, they have never heard even heard. I am very sad to have to face the Xuefeng, Hats off to Heroes, people will always remember them!
Since then, I climbed Miaohou the height of a person, walk through the bush in Qinggang, in a square on the floor, put down the camera bag, in the face Gonggar peaks, his hands clasped together; for me over the years Gongga plot prayer. The here and now moment, the trajectory of life across the scene reproduced in the mind, how many people are familiar with passed away, how much the birth of new life again, current affairs reincarnation, of all things alternative, then this scene, two lines of tears had blurred eyes, Zhang Gui can not afford. Hazy peaks in the oncoming Shijue Gongga, beautiful eyes is a degree of solemn Tim Buddha, shallow smile at me, the sky came the ring whispers:
clouds cleared, Gonggar Jun majestic peaks become increasingly high, she witnessed the earth-shaking earth!
Now, I'm always thinking, Japanese mountaineer Matsuda macros, Deng Gongga in climbing mountains, only 50 meters to the summit successful, unfortunately, sudden change in weather, suffered serious wind and snow, the team members believe the expense Sugawara, Matsuda Acer is also fighting against brain death after 19 days and was rescued four fellow Yi, creating the world's mountaineering history and life history of a miracle, I participated in the rescue, and Matsuda became friends 20 years later in 2002 he revisited Matsuda second home ─ ─ Mountain, I also accompanied. Gongga his face white peaks, eyes full of tears, and said with deep feeling: So majestic and solemn! I have thoroughly dispelled from the heart to conquer it in mind. mountain is not conquered, we should respect Hill, close to mountains, to make friends with nature, harmony, will let you go mountain climbing, you will Success! ... ... .....
This has become my life philosophy, will affect the rest of my life.
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